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19) Read your Stabilizer Owners Manual for initial settings on the ...
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Short Description: Kawasaki Z1000 / Z750s weld-on instructions 03/09/07 .... 19) Read your Stabilizer Owners Manual for initial settings on the controls. ...
Content Inside: Installation guide for: Kawasaki Z1000 / Z750S 1) Due to the frame configuration of this bike, this is one of the few kits that require welding. The welding portion is a very simple operation but should be done by a qualified welder. See your dealer for matching frame paint. The effort is well worth the results you'll get from this stabilizer. This kit is designed to be used with the upright style handlebars that come stock . 2) When welding, we you must remove the gas tank and store it in a safe place well away from the welding area. It's a good idea to cover the gas tank with a large towel or protective pad so you don't scratch the tank while working on the bike. Standard welding rod works fine. Weld areas must be thoroughly clean and free of any paint or other foreign material and debris. 3) Be sure to protect any flammable areas from the heat of welding, such as head tube bearings and seals. 4) Temporarily mount and mark the "Weld-on tower" following the instructions below BEFORE you remove the tank. This insures the tank will in fact, fit back on the bike after you've welded the frame bracket in place. 5) Remove the small plastic caps that cover the (4) handlebar clamping bolts by using a knife to slide under them. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the handlebars tight with a 6mm Allen Wrench. Discard your stock upper barclamp. 6) Install the Scotts, one-piece handlebar clamp, with the part #'s toward the front of the bike, (see photo). 7) Tighten the 4 Allen head bolts in the barclamp evenly so the gap between the upper and lower perches is the same or equal. 8) Set the frame bracket temporarily into it's approximate position and install the stabilizer to the barclamp using the (2) 6x20 Allen head bolts provided in the kit while sliding the linkarm over the tower pin in the frame bracket. 9) The stabilizer link arm is going to serve as the guide and "holder" for the frame bracket, as you tack weld it in place. 10) Remove the plating, paint and any other debris wherever welding will occur, both on the frame and the weld-on tower. 11) Examine the area you are going to weld to, including under the frame, so you get an idea of where the strength in the frame is. You cannot weld the tower to a cosmetic cover plate and expect it to stay on. It must be welded to the outer frame rails. Remember, the forces of the stabilizer are being exerted mostly left to right, more so than front to back. 12) If needed, the tower can be shaped by grinding it to fit the frame better to provide additional strength to the welding area. 13) Cut, shape and fit everything into place before tack welding any of the parts. Be sure the tank still fits on and off. 14) In rare cases, we've found these frames can vary enough to affect the physical angle of the frame bracket tower. This step tells you how to compensate for those rare cases: It's ideal, but not mandatory, that the base portion of the frame bracket be sitting flush against the frame. In this position the tower pin should be in the approximate middle of the slot in the linkarm. It's ok for the tower pin to be off center, front to back, in the slot as long as it does not get to far to either end, causing it to bind. The welding is primarily going to be on the outer ends of the base plate, outboard as far as possible, engaging the frame rails, so a small gap under either the front or rear of the frame brackets is normally ok. If the gap becomes excessive, the tower itself can be adjusted (bent) to compensate for excessive mis-alignment. The best way to make this adjustment to the tower is to insert the tower pin into the tower first, this will insure the concentricity of the precision hole while bending. Support the base of the cylindrical portion of the tower as low as possible by clamping it in v-blocks or carefully in a vice. Find something to slide over the tower that fits as close to the 12.8mm outside diameter as possible, such as an old set of 7/8" handlebars or a 13mm deep socket. Slide the old handlebars down as far as possible over the tower post and gently bend the tower in the direction needed. This process should never require much deflection. Do not clamp the base plate in a vice and bend the tower or you will compromise the weld where the tower meets the base plate. Bend only the tower as low as possible. 15) Position the weld-on tower up under the linkarm. The tower is pre-cut to approximate length for this kit, but each bike will vary slightly and we suggest you shape it to provide the maximum contact with the weldable area, in order to suit your individual bike's frame and factory welds. The more area you provide for welding to, the stronger the installation. You can file or grind the bottom where it welds to the frame for specific fitment purposes, such as clearing welds on the frame. 16) Check your handlebar clearance through both rotations, left to right, lock to lock and the gas tank clearance, with the vertical tower in place. Check to be sure that the linkarm is straight with the backbone of the bike before tack welding. 17) Tack-weld the bracket in place. Double check that the linkarm is straight when the bike is aimed straight ahead as in the photos below. Once this is verified, remove the tower pin so you don't melt the nylon collar and finish welding as much of the tower as is possible. 18) When finished, the tower pin should be kept greased inside the tower hole at all times. It is designed to "float" and requires no retaining devices. Not allowing it to float freely can hamper the function of the stabilizer. 19) Read your Stabilizer Owners Manual for initial settings on the controls. A separate page describes each valving circuit control. The stabilizer is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. The base valve (the one with the pointer) controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted. If you have any questions on anything call us, we want to help you!
Kawasaki Z1000 / Z750s weld-on instructions 03/09/07
